Crystal Clear sealers will not filter out UV rays. A transparent tinted sealer acts like sunglasses for your wood, filtering the Uv rays and preventing discoloration. You can use a clear sealer but it will gray very quickly
I have a house that has pine log siding. I used Penofin “Blue” on the surface about 7 years ago and need to clean and restain surface. The surface color varies greatly starting as a medium gray at the bottom and changing gradually to the original color under the eaves of the roof line.
# 1 what would you recommend for a stain? I have been told that there are much better products on the market than Penofin today. I would prefer the longest lasting stain and yet when it needs to be restained, it would not require anymore work than any other product.
# 2 Would a surface stripper or just a cleaner be necessary for the prep work as mentioned in the first paragraph?
Penofin will discolor through the years where it is exposed to the sun's uv rays. Some products fade while Penofin will darken slightly. They will all do this color shift through the years as the uv radiation breaks down the stains.
TWP will not darken in color and has shown great results. I would suggest the TWP 500 series since it has a higher solid content to filter out the uv rays longer: TWP Wood Deck Stain and Exterior Preservative
Example of a home restored with TWP 500 series Cedar Color: http://www.opwdecks.com/housefrontcorner.gif http://www.opwdecks.com/graphics/00000001/CedarHousestained.gif
You should use a stripper to clean the house followed by a brightener. I would suggest our new product since it will be extremely easy to apply. It should be ready for sale in the next few weeks if you can wait: http://www.opwdecks.com/powersolveinjectables.htm
I have a wood deck that I have used Floods's CWF wood sealer on it is not lasting and the wood is cracking. I want a natural look that will protect the wood. I live in MO where the winters can be very cold and the summers extremely hot. What sealer would you recomment
All of our stains/sealers work very well. I would suggest removing the CWF completely and applying a oil based product such as the TWP 500 series. This will give you better penetration and excellent UV protection.
I have a boathouse that was built last winter/spring (2006). It has been exposed to the elements for 1 year now. I need to clean and stain/seal the deck areas. I need something that will hold up (like varnish). Nothing I have researched has more than an 18 month life. We prefer something more clear or natural look. What would you recommend that if something dripped off while applying that it will not damage the water and fish? This is in middle VA area of the country.
Putting a Varnish on Horizontal exterior wood is one of the worst things you can do. It will blister and peel and it will be a maintenance nightmare in the future. To remove you would most likely have to sand the entire deck since strippers will not remove varnishes. Varnishes film form and will not allow the wood to breath causing internal rot.
If you are looking for an enviromentally safe product we would suggest the Defy brand. It is registered MPI Green and will not cause damage to the water or fish: http://www.opwdecks.com/defyproducts.htm
You must have a tint if you expect UV protection. Everything that we sell will be transparent but have a tint that enhances the wood tones.
The PowerSolve Hose Connect Injectable Deck Cleaner, Stripper, and Brightener are ideal for prepping your exterior wood. The ease of use is exceptional. Just hook to your garden hose and apply! There is no mixing with water and applying by brush or pump sprayer. These highly concentrated formulas were developed by our professionals with over 3 million feet of experience.
We used Defy Epoxy last year and it still has a great color but water no longer beads on the surface. Should I apply another coat this summer? Does the original coat need to be stripped or just cleaned?
"Beading" water is a misconception when it comes to deck stains and sealers. Stains will shed water but will not bead water. If it beads water permanently then it will not allow the wood to breathe and could cause dry rot.
If you would like to apply a maintenance coat of Defy then all you need to do is use a wood cleaner to prep the wood followed by one coat of stain.
Usually these are cheap products that try to take advantage of people but promoting a "bead" effect. This is not why you need to treat wood. The main reasons is to protect against UV damage, mold, and dirt. Water repellency is important but it is better to have a shedding effect then a beading effect.
You need to prep the wood with a wood cleaner followed by a wood brightener. This will open the pores and remove the mill glaze. We suggest the PowerSolve Hose Connect Deck Cleaners. They are very easy to use.
Have a new redwood deck. Live in Southwest USA. Want to leave natural. Have decided we want waterbased sealer and no stain, dirt blows a lot here. It's down to either your Defy or TWP brand. Which will help us the most retain natural wood. want to go as many years as I can w/o stain. Thank you. Tony Martin
Crystal clear sealers will only last about 6-9 months. You must have a tint if you would like it to last for 2 years. TWP is an oil base and Defy is our only water based product. I would suggest the Defy for Hardwoods/Cedar. This product will penetrate your Redwood much better then the epoxy version. The Natural Pine is the lightest color and would be very similar to a clean "wet" look.
Makes sure you prep the wood by removing the mill glaze and brightening the wood.
Hello, I used TWP 2 yrs ago on deck, ready for recoat on horizontal surface of deck. Your web site is not specific about applying TWP over deck previsoucly coated with TWP. Am I to understand that cleaning the deck with a commercialy availbale deck cleaner is adequate prep for applying new coats of TWP?
TWP (and most other stains) can be recoated as long as the previous coating(s) is porous enough to accept a new coating. Best way to tell is to apply some drips of water. If the water is absorbed right away then you can apply a maintenance coat. If it does not absorb then the previous coating should be stripped. Please remember that over application can result in premature product failure.
If you would like to clean the wood with a wood deck cleaner then we would suggest the PowerSolve Injectable's
Glenn Haege wrote about a product in Saturday's Detroit News called the Sealer Store Deck Care System...."all you do to clean the deck is connect the sealer store wood deck cleaner & brightener to your garden hose, spray on, agitate, let sit for 10 min & rinse away dirt."
I guess I thought I could find the complete system on your site but cannot find it so does this need to be purchased separately? If so, do you know what he's referring to?
Thanks for your help. I'm anxious to try this product!
Hi, I was referred to your company but not about which product. I recently purchased white cedar outdoor log furniture. I would like a protectant that will keep the wood from turning grey & preserve the natural color. Which one of your products do you suggest? Thanks, Missy
All of our product come in a tint that will filter out the UV rays and prolong graying. I would suggest a cedar or honey color to keep the wood in the natural tones. Also choosing a product with a high solid content will filter out the UV rays longer:
Hello, Just put in a new redwood deck. Have looked at your products and am interested in a clear finish that is water repellant, uv protected, and contains mildewcide. Seems that the UV-resistant clear would be best. Is that correct? Also would you recommend 1 or 2 coats of this product and what form of application would be best? Thanks
The Defy UV clear is only good for about 1 year. If you want the finish to last longer then you will need a tint to filter/absorb the UV rays. Crystal clear products just do not have the ability to last very long.
When applying finishes you should always follow the manufacturers instructions. Defy calls for 1 coat on new wood. Over application could result in premature product failure.
Spray followed by a stain pad application would be the best for applying all of our finishes. The stain pad will make sure that you have an even application.
I have a new pressure treated deck and want to seal it. I was going to use defy sealant but their site suggest to wait 6 months before sealing it. Do I have to wait? Will there be damage from waiting? Is their another product that I can use right away? Or do I have to wait before using any sealant?
ACQ Pressure Treated Pine should be allowed to dry for 6 months before applying any type of stain. You do not have to wait but it would be to your benefit. Either way the first time you stain ACQ it will not last as long as the second time. This is because the wood is not very absorbent when new.
Does the Sealer Store have MSDSs for PowerSolve Wood Deck Cleaner and Wood Deck Brightener? I am about to redo my deck and was thinking about ordering those along with TWP stain. I was able to get the TWP MSDS from the Amteco website, but so far haven't been able to to find the PowerSolve MSDSs doing a Google search. Thank you.
I am lookig for an exterior deck stain (or top coat) that will finish to a sheen/luster/semi-gloss. Installing tongue&groove pine on a covered porch. Would prefer a semi-transparent stain. Is there any product or approach that will work without high maintenance?
The only product that we carry that will film form and leave sheen is the Messmers TimberFlex. This does come in diiferent colored tints to enhance the natural tones of your wood. If this is going on a tongue and grove in a covered area it will last for many years.
I am looking at the Messmers UV Plus. The picutre of "Natural" shows 3 colors: light brown, golden brown and dark brown. What color will I get on pine or cedar?
I just had a cedar deck built and ordered the twp 500 cedar tint and the brightner. After reading comments I discovered I need the cleaner. my question. After I apply cleaner, do I follow immediately with the brighter and is there a waiting period for wood to dry before applying cedar tint. what is the time table for cleaning,brightening, and staining. should I wait for wood to dry between each process? Bill
All new wood should be cleaned with a cleaner to open the pores. Immediately apply the brightener after the cleaner and you should wait a couple of days before applying the TWP 501.
I have black stains on my deck floor from chair leg bottoms. They have leached to approximately 16". How can I remove these prior to using TWP light cedar on the deck? Please keep in mind that I am not very strong, it is summer (85degrees) and don't have more than an hour's stamina. the deck floor is douglas fir and the stain is too dark - can't see the beauty of the deck - it has also weathered to a gray in areas. The deck is 4 years old. [railings, etc. are redwood and cedar. Thank you so much for your help. I saw your TWP on a friend's deck in St. Louis and want that shine and lustre on my deck. Do you think I can achieve that? Sandie Miller
The black stains are rust stains from your chairs. Depending on how deep the stains are, a Wood Brightener should remove the majority of the black.
You should clean with a Wood Cleaner first followed by the brightener. After this then the TWP can be applied a couple of days later as long as the wood is dry.
I would appreciate your thoughts regarding deck sealers. I have a very large, deck made of PT wood. Currently it has a solid stain, Sikkens, which continues to chip and peal after a couple of years. I anticipate replacing the deck with new PT wood. I have already replaced a front porch and sidewalk with PT wood that requires a sealer. I like the natural wood look and prefer a clear sealer. Which do you recommend and will any of them prevent graying long term? If not, will the wood brighteners take out the gray before reapplication? How often will reapplication be required? If I use a clear can I use a "toned" sealer at a later date? There are many conflicting opinions on the internet and by paint manufacturers.
1. "Crystal" Clear sealers will do nothing for UV protection. You must have a tint to filter out UV and prolong the graying effect. A crystal clear sealer that stops UV will be in effect in the next 1-2 years. 2. All of our products are excellent and not one particular product is better then the others. Our most popular with homeowners is the TWP and the most popular with contractors is the Wood Tux. 3. Brighteners wor k on wood only after using a cleaner or stripper. by itself it will not get rid of grayness. $. If changing products you must strip of the previous coating first.
Scott Paul OPW L.L.C. thesealerstore.com 866.856.DECK
I have a newly treated wood deck. The new wood planks sat for 8 months and were recently sealed with Cabot's clear stain after it was power washed with Cabot's wood cleaner, dried and swept. It looks great but now several of the boards are excreting sap. Any ideas on how to correct would be appreciated. Ray.
A coating that has turned black is usually due to dirt or mildew. You definetly need to strip off the prevous coating and brighten the wood. I would suggest restaining with a coating such as TWP or Wood Tux. These products are not prone to turning dark or black in color after a couple of years.
Hello there. I am up in Canada, so I don't think your able to ship up here.
My question is. I just built a cedar deck and I have had 3 guys who want to stain my deck and they all want to use a different product. i can understand that.
The Stains in Question are Olympic , Benjamin moore, and sikkens.
Which one is really the better one to go with if I had to choose between these. What about Behr from Home Depot. Sorry I am not asking about the products that your selling. They all sound great but I don't think i can get my hands on them. need to know asap. Thank you kindly
The Benjamin Moore product is probably the best of the 3. We are not big fans of Sikkens (hard to remove in future) and Olympic. Olympic is not a bad product though. Just has a tendency to fade early. Take in consideration that the formulas for these products in Canada may be different then the USA, so you may have different results.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use Behr! It is the most problematic product that we have ever seen.
I need a recomendation on a job. Outdoor furniture subjected to harsh weather.
Must clean , treat , stain outdoor benches -outdoors year round subjected to ocean air, moisture, sunlight, heat from the gas firepits. Thinking of using penofin red but not sure, can you help with best product to use for cleaning, treating and staining.
I have 9 benches total and they are aprx. 6' each. Should I buy per gallon or 5 gallon? How long will delivery take? See attachment for pictures of benches. Thank you for any assistance regarding this project.
All of our stains will work great and this isn't one that is better then the others. The Red Label Penofin is an excellent product and would work for your project. I would suggest the TheSealerStore PowerSolve Injectable Wood Deck Care Cleaners for prepping wood benches first
Hello, I have 240 sqft deck of redwood, in state of Calif. It is about 20 years old, and I have just finished power sanding with a drum sander, sands with grain, used 60 and 80 grit paper. Looks very nice, but still is a small bit rough. 0-Should I continue sanding to get smoother? The sanding took off all previous coating, the current color is a nice reddish brown, and I would like to keep it that way, as much as possible. I have read your site and blog, and am considering the TPW 500 and penofin Red. I want to preserve as much of the real color as possible, but you make the point about the need for a transparent tint. 1-Does the tint content make a difference on seeing the natural color? TWP 500 has twice the solids content, hence more tint color? 2-What is the solids content of Penofin? 3-Are either of these a better choice for redwood? The wood is very dry and a little rough, I have blown the dust off with a strong blower, but have not water washed, 4-what should be done before applying the penofin or twp? thanks Jim Craig Lake Forest, CA
The tint ehances the natural colors of the wood. It will not mask it like a paint will. In your state you must choose the Penofin Red Label or the TWP 500 series. This is due to CA VOC regulations. Both have very high solid contents but are still transparent. Both will do very well on your type of wood. Make sure to apply a deck cleaner and deck brightener prior to staining. They will open the pores allowing better penetration
I used oxygen bleach (StainSolver) to clean my deck. Do I still need to use a brightener to balance the pH or am I ready to stain?
I would like to use a stain that is easy to remove (with oxygen bleach) if I don't like it after a couple years and I understand epoxy fortified synthetic resin stains and waterborne acrylic/alkyd stains are problematic to remove. I saw Sikkens Cetol SRD and True Value Woodsman UV were recommended for semitransparent stains by Consumer Reports. What is your opinion on these or is there a different stain I should consider?
Yes you should use a brightener to neutralize. The sodium percabonate cleaner you use will not change the pH balance as much as a stripper but it will change it slightly.
Sikkens is extremely hard to remove and I have personally never used the Woodsmnan. Be aware of the consumers reports ratings. They never take inconsideration what is needed in the future for maintenance or removal.
I have a deck project that keeps growing on me, and need some input trying to finish it properly.
After buying a house, I noticed the pressure-treated pine deck needed work. The existing brown finish had turned to mostly gray, and the vertical spindles were nearly black, especially in those areas getting sun exposure. The deck faces north, but gets some sun mid-day. It beaded water in sheltered areas close to the house, but not in the more exposed areas. Heeding some well-meaning--but bad--advice, I sanded my entire deck surface and applied a coat of Behr semi-transparent stain (I know better now), with no other preparation. The stain was a very different color than I expected, and I realized I had not prepared the deck well in the first place. As penance, I have stripped off the newly-applied stain using Behr's stripper, a deck brush and a lot of scrubbing. After 10 hours of sanding, and probably at least that in applying and stripping the Behr stain, I have a stripped deck.
After all this work and a couple mistakes, I just want the deck completed properly.
What are your recommendations for neutralizing the stripper and applying cleaner/brightener? May I use the Behr 2-in-1 Cleaner/Brightener I already opened? (And then pledge not to use Behr in the future.) Or is another product more suited to the task?
I could use some recommendations for finish as well. I would like something natural or a warm golden hue, and I realize a completely clear finish provides no UV protections. Plus, the deck sees the rain and snowdrifts of west Michigan weather. I would really enjoy something reasonably easy to apply because I am not an accomplished painter. The freshly stripped deck floor, rails and spindles all look daunting to finish well. Penofin and TWP seem like good products.
Brightening/neutralizing is very important but should have been done right after the stripping. You shouls still do it and the Behr product is probably good enough.
Anything we sell will work better. Keep in mind that the better it penetrates the better it works. You may want to try TheSealerStore Timberoil as this product is extrememly easy to use and penetrates very well.
In very basic terms, what is the difference between TimberOil and a stain like TWP? Should I favor one over the other for an outdoor deck that sees sun, rain and snow?
TWP is a very good product and will perform as well as the Timberoil. It does not penetrate quite as well though. We personally use TWP on many decks in Michigan with very good results. It is harder to apply then the Timberoil
My Cedar deck in Illinois is due again for staining.
I'm considering the TimberOil, I I buy the TimberOil, can I put on a touch up coat every season or so, or must it be completely removed before re coating. Don't wish to have a dark build up.
Also, in your experience, do the silicon type wood sealers (cedarcide, etc..) really improve the life of the top coat stain?
I'm getting about 3 years, mainly due to my deck being located in low sun exposure area. But, I'd like to get more if possible, or at least not have to completely remove the old stain each time. But, I don't want the stain to get too dark either.
Timberoil does not get dark and does not need to be removed when recoating. The wood should be cleaned of dirt and grime though.
No stain will last more then 3 years. It's just not possible.
Silica type sealers will work but they will not make a top coat stain hold color longer. The sun will fade the stain out no matter what. They will stabalize the wood cells so your top coat stain will not have a failure due to cellular shifting from water, ice, snow, etc.
I previously had ATO on my mahogany deck and it just looked terrible after 9months. I did the 4 steps: strip, clean, brighten then used DEFY and it looked fantastic. I made sure the deck was bone dry between each application (in total it took 2 weeks). Now, I need to know what I have do do for maintenence before winter arrives. Any suggestions?
64 comments:
Should I use a tinted sealer or a clear sealer for my wood deck?
Crystal Clear sealers will not filter out UV rays. A transparent tinted sealer acts like sunglasses for your wood, filtering the Uv rays and preventing discoloration. You can use a clear sealer but it will gray very quickly
I am looking for something that will last more than 1 year. What do you suggest?
All of the Deck Stains that we sell will last 2-4 years on Verticals and 18-36 months on Horizontals for the majority types of wood.
I have a house that has pine log siding. I used Penofin “Blue” on the surface about 7 years ago and need to clean and restain surface. The surface color varies greatly starting as a medium gray at the bottom and changing gradually to the original color under the eaves of the roof line.
# 1 what would you recommend for a stain? I have been told that there are much better products on the market than Penofin today. I would prefer the longest lasting stain and yet when it needs to be restained, it would not require anymore work than any other product.
# 2 Would a surface stripper or just a cleaner be necessary for the prep work as mentioned in the first paragraph?
Thank You in advance
Brent
Penofin will discolor through the years where it is exposed to the sun's uv rays. Some products fade while Penofin will darken slightly. They will all do this color shift through the years as the uv radiation breaks down the stains.
TWP will not darken in color and has shown great results. I would suggest the TWP 500 series since it has a higher solid content to filter out the uv rays longer:
TWP Wood Deck Stain and Exterior Preservative
Example of a home restored with TWP 500 series Cedar Color:
http://www.opwdecks.com/housefrontcorner.gif
http://www.opwdecks.com/graphics/00000001/CedarHousestained.gif
You should use a stripper to clean the house followed by a brightener. I would suggest our new product since it will be extremely easy to apply. It should be ready for sale in the next few weeks if you can wait:
http://www.opwdecks.com/powersolveinjectables.htm
I have a wood deck that I have used Floods's CWF wood sealer on it is not lasting and the wood is cracking. I want a natural look that will protect the wood. I live in MO where the winters can be very cold and the summers extremely hot. What sealer would you recomment
All of our stains/sealers work very well. I would suggest removing the CWF completely and applying a oil based product such as the TWP 500 series. This will give you better penetration and excellent UV protection.
I have a boathouse that was built last winter/spring (2006). It has been exposed to the elements for 1 year now. I need to clean and stain/seal the deck areas. I need something that will hold up (like varnish). Nothing I have researched has more than an 18 month life. We prefer something more clear or natural look. What would you recommend that if something dripped off while applying that it will not damage the water and fish?
This is in middle VA area of the country.
Thanks
Putting a Varnish on Horizontal exterior wood is one of the worst things you can do. It will blister and peel and it will be a maintenance nightmare in the future. To remove you would most likely have to sand the entire deck since strippers will not remove varnishes. Varnishes film form and will not allow the wood to breath causing internal rot.
If you are looking for an enviromentally safe product we would suggest the Defy brand. It is registered MPI Green and will not cause damage to the water or fish:
http://www.opwdecks.com/defyproducts.htm
You must have a tint if you expect UV protection. Everything that we sell will be transparent but have a tint that enhances the wood tones.
The PowerSolve Hose Connect Injectable Deck Cleaner, Stripper, and Brightener are ideal for prepping your exterior wood. The ease of use is exceptional. Just hook to your garden hose and apply! There is no mixing with water and applying by brush or pump sprayer. These highly concentrated formulas were developed by our professionals with over 3 million feet of experience.
We used Defy Epoxy last year and it still has a great color but water no longer beads on the surface. Should I apply another coat this summer? Does the original coat need to be stripped or just cleaned?
"Beading" water is a misconception when it comes to deck stains and sealers. Stains will shed water but will not bead water. If it beads water permanently then it will not allow the wood to breathe and could cause dry rot.
If you would like to apply a maintenance coat of Defy then all you need to do is use a wood cleaner to prep the wood followed by one coat of stain.
Why is it then that you see commercials promote beading water on the TV?
Usually these are cheap products that try to take advantage of people but promoting a "bead" effect. This is not why you need to treat wood. The main reasons is to protect against UV damage, mold, and dirt. Water repellency is important but it is better to have a shedding effect then a beading effect.
i just had a new redwood deck built, its my understanding that i should use some type of "new wood treament" what can you recommend?
You need to prep the wood with a wood cleaner followed by a wood brightener. This will open the pores and remove the mill glaze. We suggest the PowerSolve Hose Connect Deck Cleaners. They are very easy to use.
Have a new redwood deck. Live in Southwest USA. Want to leave natural. Have decided we want waterbased sealer and no stain, dirt blows a lot here. It's down to either your Defy or TWP brand. Which will help us the most retain natural wood. want to go as many years as I can w/o stain. Thank you. Tony Martin
Crystal clear sealers will only last about 6-9 months. You must have a tint if you would like it to last for 2 years. TWP is an oil base and Defy is our only water based product. I would suggest the Defy for Hardwoods/Cedar. This product will penetrate your Redwood much better then the epoxy version. The Natural Pine is the lightest color and would be very similar to a clean "wet" look.
Makes sure you prep the wood by removing the mill glaze and brightening the wood.
Hello, I used TWP 2 yrs ago on deck, ready for recoat on horizontal
surface of deck. Your web site is not specific about applying TWP over
deck previsoucly coated with TWP. Am I to understand that cleaning the
deck with a commercialy availbale deck cleaner is adequate prep for
applying new coats of TWP?
John K
TWP (and most other stains) can be recoated as long as the previous coating(s) is porous enough to accept a new coating. Best way to tell is to apply some drips of water. If the water is absorbed right away then you can apply a maintenance coat. If it does not absorb then the previous coating should be stripped. Please remember that over application can result in premature product failure.
If you would like to clean the wood with a wood deck cleaner then we would suggest the PowerSolve Injectable's
Glenn Haege wrote about a product in Saturday's Detroit News called the Sealer Store
Deck Care System...."all you do to clean the deck is connect the sealer store wood deck cleaner & brightener to your garden hose, spray on, agitate, let sit for 10 min & rinse away
dirt."
I guess I thought I could find the complete system on your site but cannot find it so does this need to be purchased separately? If so, do you know what he's referring to?
Thanks for your help. I'm anxious to try this product!
Susan
He is referring to our injectable cleaners:
TheSealerStore PowerSolve Injectable Wood Deck Care Cleaners
They are easy to apply cleaners, strippers, and brighteners.
Hi, I was referred to your company but not about which product. I recently
purchased white cedar outdoor log furniture. I would like a protectant that
will keep the wood from turning grey & preserve the natural color. Which one
of your products do you suggest? Thanks, Missy
All of our product come in a tint that will filter out the UV rays and prolong graying. I would suggest a cedar or honey color to keep the wood in the natural tones. Also choosing a product with a high solid content will filter out the UV rays longer:
TWP 500 series
Wood Tux
Penofin Red Label
Hello, Just put in a new redwood deck. Have looked at your products and am interested in a clear finish that is water repellant, uv protected, and contains mildewcide. Seems that the UV-resistant clear would be best. Is that correct? Also would you recommend 1 or 2 coats of this product and what form of application would be best? Thanks
The Defy UV clear is only good for about 1 year. If you want the finish to last longer then you will need a tint to filter/absorb the UV rays. Crystal clear products just do not have the ability to last very long.
When applying finishes you should always follow the manufacturers instructions. Defy calls for 1 coat on new wood. Over application could result in premature product failure.
Spray followed by a stain pad application would be the best for applying all of our finishes. The stain pad will make sure that you have an even application.
I have a new pressure treated deck and want to seal it. I was going to use defy sealant but their site suggest to wait 6 months before sealing it. Do I have to wait? Will there be damage from waiting? Is their another product that I can use right away? Or do I have to wait before using any sealant?
Thanks
ACQ Pressure Treated Pine should be allowed to dry for 6 months before applying any type of stain. You do not have to wait but it would be to your benefit. Either way the first time you stain ACQ it will not last as long as the second time. This is because the wood is not very absorbent when new.
Does the Sealer Store have MSDSs for PowerSolve Wood Deck Cleaner and Wood Deck Brightener? I am about to redo my deck and was thinking about ordering those along with TWP stain. I was able to get the TWP MSDS from the Amteco website, but so far haven't been able to to find the PowerSolve MSDSs doing a Google search. Thank you.
Sorry but we do not have an MSDS online or in an email form. Please contact us with a fax# and we will have one sent over.
I am lookig for an exterior deck stain (or top coat) that will finish to a sheen/luster/semi-gloss. Installing tongue&groove pine on a covered porch. Would prefer a semi-transparent stain. Is there any product or approach that will work without high maintenance?
The only product that we carry that will film form and leave sheen is the Messmers TimberFlex. This does come in diiferent colored tints to enhance the natural tones of your wood. If this is going on a tongue and grove in a covered area it will last for many years.
http://www.opwdecks.com/messmerstimberflex.htm
I am looking at the Messmers UV Plus.
The picutre of "Natural" shows 3 colors: light brown, golden brown and dark brown. What color will I get on pine or cedar?
I just had a cedar deck built and ordered the twp 500 cedar tint and the brightner. After reading comments I discovered I need the cleaner. my question. After I apply cleaner, do I follow immediately with the brighter and is there a waiting period for wood to dry before applying cedar tint. what is the time table for cleaning,brightening, and staining. should I wait for wood to dry between each process? Bill
Messmers colors go from left to right on these types of wood.
Cedar Pine Redwood
All new wood should be cleaned with a cleaner to open the pores. Immediately apply the brightener after the cleaner and you should wait a couple of days before applying the TWP 501.
I have black stains on my deck floor from chair leg bottoms. They have leached to approximately 16". How can I remove these prior to using TWP light cedar on the deck? Please keep in mind that I am not very strong, it is summer (85degrees) and don't have more than an hour's stamina. the deck floor is douglas fir and the stain is too dark - can't see the beauty of the deck - it has also weathered to a gray in areas. The deck is 4 years old. [railings, etc. are redwood and cedar.
Thank you so much for your help. I saw your TWP on a friend's deck in St. Louis and want that shine and lustre on my deck. Do you think I can achieve that?
Sandie Miller
The black stains are rust stains from your chairs. Depending on how deep the stains are, a Wood Brightener should remove the majority of the black.
You should clean with a Wood Cleaner first followed by the brightener. After this then the TWP can be applied a couple of days later as long as the wood is dry.
I would appreciate your thoughts regarding deck sealers. I have a very large, deck made of PT wood. Currently it has a solid stain, Sikkens, which continues to chip and peal after a couple of years. I anticipate replacing the deck with new PT wood. I have already replaced a front porch and sidewalk with PT wood that requires a sealer. I like the natural wood look and prefer a clear sealer. Which do you recommend and will any of them prevent graying long term? If not, will the wood brighteners take out the gray before reapplication? How often will reapplication be required? If I use a clear can I use a "toned" sealer at a later date? There are many conflicting opinions on the internet and by paint manufacturers.
Thanks for your help,
Chet Dickey
Here is some answers to your questions.
1. "Crystal" Clear sealers will do nothing for UV protection. You must have a tint to filter out UV and prolong the graying effect. A crystal clear sealer that stops UV will be in effect in the next 1-2 years.
2. All of our products are excellent and not one particular product is better then the others. Our most popular with homeowners is the TWP and the most popular with contractors is the Wood Tux.
3. Brighteners wor
k on wood only after using a cleaner or stripper. by itself it will not get rid of grayness.
$. If changing products you must strip of the previous coating first.
Scott Paul
OPW L.L.C.
thesealerstore.com
866.856.DECK
I have a newly treated wood deck. The new wood planks sat for 8 months and were recently sealed with Cabot's clear stain after it was power washed with Cabot's wood cleaner, dried and swept. It looks great but now several of the boards are excreting sap.
Any ideas on how to correct would be appreciated. Ray.
Sap coming out of the pine wood has nothing to do with the stain and cannot be prevented. There isn't really much you can do except clean off the sap.
My previous coating of stain turned black. What should I do to clean the deck so that it looks normal again?
A coating that has turned black is usually due to dirt or mildew. You definetly need to strip off the prevous coating and brighten the wood. I would suggest restaining with a coating such as TWP or Wood Tux. These products are not prone to turning dark or black in color after a couple of years.
I have a trex deck that is about 1 1/2 years old and is covered in mold! What type of cleaners do I need?
Hello there. I am up in Canada, so I don't think your able to ship up here.
My question is. I just built a cedar deck and I have had 3 guys who want to stain my deck and they all want to use a different product. i can understand that.
The Stains in Question are Olympic , Benjamin moore, and sikkens.
Which one is really the better one to go with if I had to choose between these. What about Behr from Home Depot. Sorry I am not asking about the products that your selling. They all sound great but I don't think i can get my hands on them. need to know asap. Thank you kindly
For cleaning Trex or composite type wood, we would suggest the Defy Wood Cleaner. This is an excellent product for mold/mildew removal.
The Benjamin Moore product is probably the best of the 3. We are not big fans of Sikkens (hard to remove in future) and Olympic. Olympic is not a bad product though. Just has a tendency to fade early. Take in consideration that the formulas for these products in Canada may be different then the USA, so you may have different results.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use Behr! It is the most problematic product that we have ever seen.
I need a recomendation on a job. Outdoor furniture subjected to harsh weather.
Must clean , treat , stain outdoor benches -outdoors year round subjected to ocean air, moisture, sunlight, heat from the gas firepits.
Thinking of using penofin red but not sure, can you help with best product to use for cleaning, treating and staining.
I have 9 benches total and they are aprx. 6' each. Should I buy per gallon or 5 gallon? How long will delivery take?
See attachment for pictures of benches.
Thank you for any assistance regarding this project.
All of our stains will work great and this isn't one that is better then the others. The Red Label Penofin is an excellent product and would work for your project. I would suggest the
TheSealerStore PowerSolve Injectable Wood Deck Care Cleaners for prepping wood benches first
Hello, I have 240 sqft deck of redwood, in state of Calif. It is about 20 years old, and I have just finished power sanding with a drum sander, sands with grain, used 60 and 80 grit paper. Looks very nice, but still is a small bit rough. 0-Should I continue sanding to get smoother? The sanding took off all previous coating, the current color is a nice reddish brown, and I would like to keep it that way, as much as possible.
I have read your site and blog, and am considering the TPW 500 and penofin Red. I want to preserve as much of the real color as possible, but you make the point about the need for a transparent tint. 1-Does the tint content make a difference on seeing the natural color? TWP 500 has twice the solids content, hence more tint color? 2-What is the solids content of Penofin? 3-Are either of these a better choice for redwood?
The wood is very dry and a little rough, I have blown the dust off with a strong blower, but have not water washed, 4-what should be done before applying the penofin or twp?
thanks
Jim Craig
Lake Forest, CA
The tint ehances the natural colors of the wood. It will not mask it like a paint will. In your state you must choose the Penofin
Red Label or the TWP 500 series. This is due to CA VOC regulations. Both have very high solid contents but are still transparent. Both will do very well on your type of wood. Make sure to apply a deck cleaner and deck brightener prior to staining. They will open the pores allowing better penetration
I used oxygen bleach (StainSolver) to clean my deck. Do I still need to use a brightener to balance the pH or am I ready to stain?
I would like to use a stain that is easy to remove (with oxygen bleach) if I don't like it after a couple years and I understand epoxy fortified synthetic resin stains and waterborne acrylic/alkyd stains are problematic to remove. I saw Sikkens Cetol SRD and True Value Woodsman UV were recommended for semitransparent stains by Consumer Reports. What is your opinion on these or is there a different stain I should consider?
Thanks!
Yes you should use a brightener to neutralize. The sodium percabonate cleaner you use will not change the pH balance as much as a stripper but it will change it slightly.
Sikkens is extremely hard to remove and I have personally never used the Woodsmnan. Be aware of the consumers reports ratings. They never take inconsideration what is needed in the future for maintenance or removal.
I have a deck project that keeps growing on me, and need some input trying to finish it properly.
After buying a house, I noticed the pressure-treated pine deck needed work. The existing brown finish had turned to mostly gray, and the vertical spindles were nearly black, especially in those areas getting sun exposure. The deck faces north, but gets some sun mid-day. It beaded water in sheltered areas close to the house, but not in the more exposed areas. Heeding some well-meaning--but bad--advice, I sanded my entire deck surface and applied a coat of Behr semi-transparent stain (I know better now), with no other preparation. The stain was a very different color than I expected, and I realized I had not prepared the deck well in the first place. As penance, I have stripped off the newly-applied stain using Behr's stripper, a deck brush and a lot of scrubbing. After 10 hours of sanding, and probably at least that in applying and stripping the Behr stain, I have a stripped deck.
After all this work and a couple mistakes, I just want the deck completed properly.
What are your recommendations for neutralizing the stripper and applying cleaner/brightener? May I use the Behr 2-in-1 Cleaner/Brightener I already opened? (And then pledge not to use Behr in the future.) Or is another product more suited to the task?
I could use some recommendations for finish as well. I would like something natural or a warm golden hue, and I realize a completely clear finish provides no UV protections. Plus, the deck sees the rain and snowdrifts of west Michigan weather. I would really enjoy something reasonably easy to apply because I am not an accomplished painter. The freshly stripped deck floor, rails and spindles all look daunting to finish well. Penofin and TWP seem like good products.
Thanks for any input. I REALLY appreciate it.
Brightening/neutralizing is very important but should have been done right after the stripping. You shouls still do it and the Behr product is probably good enough.
Anything we sell will work better. Keep in mind that the better it penetrates the better it works. You may want to try TheSealerStore Timberoil as this product is extrememly easy to use and penetrates very well.
GREAT advice. Thanks.
In very basic terms, what is the difference between TimberOil and a stain like TWP? Should I favor one over the other for an outdoor deck that sees sun, rain and snow?
TWP is a very good product and will perform as well as the Timberoil. It does not penetrate quite as well though. We personally use TWP on many decks in Michigan with very good results. It is harder to apply then the Timberoil
My Cedar deck in Illinois is due again for staining.
I'm considering the TimberOil, I I buy the TimberOil, can I put on a touch up coat every season or so, or must it be completely removed before re coating. Don't wish to have a dark build up.
Also, in your experience, do the silicon type wood sealers (cedarcide, etc..) really improve the life of the top coat stain?
I'm getting about 3 years, mainly due to my deck being located in low sun exposure area. But, I'd like to get more if possible, or at least not have to completely remove the old stain each time. But, I don't want the stain to get too dark either.
Timberoil does not get dark and does not need to be removed when recoating. The wood should be cleaned of dirt and grime though.
No stain will last more then 3 years. It's just not possible.
Silica type sealers will work but they will not make a top coat stain hold color longer. The sun will fade the stain out no matter what. They will stabalize the wood cells so your top coat stain will not have a failure due to cellular shifting from water, ice, snow, etc.
The largest selections of deck stain can be found here:
Deck Stain
I previously had ATO on my mahogany deck and it just looked terrible after 9months. I did the 4 steps: strip, clean, brighten then used DEFY and it looked fantastic. I made sure the deck was bone dry between each application (in total it took 2 weeks). Now, I need to know what I have do do for maintenence before winter arrives. Any suggestions?
Clean and a light recoat is all you need to do.
Post a Comment