Our most popular brick paver sealer. This is a solvent based product that can be sprayed with our Chapin 1949 sprayer or rolled on. This will create a "wet" look with a satin to semi-gloss shine. It will also protect your pavers and cement from spills and UV rays!
I have recently added deck sealing to my exterior maintenance business and have been hesitant to offer gloss sealers because 99% of them are water based. I have a hard time believing that a water based sealer will hold up to standing water for very long. Here in Florida, we get a lot of settling of our foundations so paver decks and such end up with low spots that collect and hold rain anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days. Is there any thing that you have or recommend that can hold up to this plus heavy foot traffic such as around pools? Also, if you suggest a film former type sealer, when its time is up, what is the best way to remove the old sealant before putting down the new? On your Sealant 30 you suggest rolling it on, but I am wondering, how do you roll it without picking up the sand in between the pavers and sealing sand on the face of the pavers? Thanks for you time and I appreciate your help.
Solvent based sealers will outperform water based sealers. The SuperSeal25% is a solvent based product and it can be sprayed with the Chapin 1949 metal concrete sprayer. It is our most popular brick paver sealer that we carry. It can be applied around pools and heavy traffic areas.
The SuperSeal30% is too thick to spray and you will need to roll the sealer. You do have to be extremely careful when rolling that you do not pull the sand out. The sand should be at least a 1/4"-1/2" below the top of the paver and you should not use a thick roller cover. 1/4' to 3/8" would be best and a sponge type will work better than a nap.
Removing paver sealer is very difficult but can be done with a Methylene Chloride stripper. You will not need to remove a previous coating before applying a new coating.
The SuperSeal25% and 30% only require 1 coat at the ratio of 100 feet per gallon or 500 feet for a 5 gallon bucket. They do not need a second coat but if you would like to achieve a higher gloss then you could re coat about 2 hours after the first.
The dry time for foot traffic is about 2 hours. You can put furniture back overnight. It must cure for a minimum of 24 hours before a car can drive on the SuperSeal.
You can use Xylene or Lacquer Thinner for clean up of tools. Both are readily available at any hardware store.
This morning I had some idiot seal my driveway and he never removed the excess sand after pressure washing. After two coats of sealant my driveway now looks like a piece of course sandpaper. Can you suggest any ways of fixing this problem.
This is a very difficult situation to fix. I would suggest getting a 5 gallon of our Aromatic 100 Solvent. You could apply this in sections to soften the sealer and use a power washer to remove the sand. The other option is to use a Methylene Chloride based stripper to strip all of the sealer off. The first suggestion would be easier but still very difficult. Either way you will need to reseal the driveway when done.
Our paver sealer has a milky white look to it. This happened almost immediately after sealing. It did rain earlier in the day before we sealed it but the pavers looked dry before the coating was applied. Please help us fix this problem
Just because the pavers looked dry does not mean that it is. You should always wait at least 24 hours after rain before applying a brick paver sealer.
Moisture that is trapped can be released by applying a solvent such as xylene or lacquer thinner. This will soften the sealer and release the trapped moisture. We sell a 5 gallon at:
Efflorescence is a white chalky salt that is produced in the manufacturing of all cement products. This will typically go away naturaly within a few months.
You can chemically remove with a watered down muriatic or hydochloric acid (1:4). You need to be very careful when doing this. Too much acid can etch the cement pavers and make them look instantly old.
If you cannot see the Efflorescence when wet then you will not see it when the pavers are sealed.
I applied the Super Seal Brick Paver Sealer and it look fantastic but I have one concern. After about 3 months I am noticing most of my edging of pavers are getting like a gray sand formation over the pavers. I tried scrapping it off with a wire brush but it won't come off. Why is this occuring? If you have a solution please respond to my email; lriver100@earthlink.net
I am not quite sure what it is. I have never heard of a gray sand formation. Is there anyway you could email us a digital picture. Hopefully it is something that is easily fixed.
My driveway is colored, stamped concrete. The surface was sealed but I don't know what product was used. It left a semi-gloss surface which has eroded away in some areas. Can I apply SuperSeal paver sealer over this old sealer? What preparation is required other than a thorough pressure washing?
I have a concrete paver patio and front entry walkway that was installed last fall (approx. 700 sq. ft. total). The pavers have always been fairly dull and flat in appearance (except when wet). No sealer has been applied.
What product would you recommend to brighten the appearance? A bit of ‘wet look’ would be fine.
Defy is a very good product. Being a water based product is suggested to put two coats on to achieve the gloss level of one coat of SuperSeal. One coat would be sufficient to achieve a low lustre but an enhanced look.
I would like to know the life expectancy of the Super Sealer 30 for brick (concrete) pavers in South Florida. I purchase another brand and the gloss lasted only a few months.
Typically will last 1-2 years with minor dulling. The shine is easily rejuvenated with our Aromatic 100 solvent. This will re emulsify the sealer so that it will look brand new. We suggest doing this once a year or so that you can extend the life of the SuperSeal.
I have a patio that was sealed with a Prouct called Increte clear acrylic sealer. This was done about 3 years ago. I can not fine this product and i want to know if your sealer will work with there sealer, because I've been told that sealers can't be intermixed. Thankyou.
I applied your sealer in June, 06 and shortly after notices a chalk coloring throughout the driveway. I called your rep and he suggested using Xylene to remove these spots. I did and still have these spots. Two of my neighbors also bought your sealer product and they are having the same problem. Any suggestions?
There is 3 main reasons as to why something under the sealer is causing it to turn white. SuperSeal by itself will not turn white. It is a Styrene acrylic that will not discolor.
Xylene removes moisture that is trapped under the pavers. The xylene would remove this issue immediately.
If the pavers were new then it could be efflorescence. Efflorescence is a white chalky salt that resides in concrete and will rise to the surface from the Sun. This will typically happen within the first year of installation. This is not removable unless you completely strip down the sealer which is extremely difficult.
If you have sealed your pavers previously with an inferior product then that product could be causing the discoloring. Straight acrylic sealers somtimes blush from the sun turning it white. This is dependent on the quality of the acrylic the used. This also will need to be stripped down.
If you can send a digital picture I would be able to tell.
We just moved into a home with a brick paver driveway and patio. I'd guess that it was installed 5 years ago. Are we able to seal it now? Or is it too late?
No you are not to late to seal the paver driveway. It will enhance the look and protect it from spills and stains. I would suggest that you clean thoroughly first and add jointing sand if needed.
My patio was stamped summer before last...I would like to seal it with your superseal-m....the only coat of sealant that went down on it was done by the contractor and instead of 3 coats he put one...and did it in the rain with a sprayer...so it is not very good....will this go over it? I have no idea what he used.....please advise...there are numerous cracks in the concrete...will this get down in them and prolong the life of the existing job?...thanks...Deb
SuperSeal-M is a water based non gloss formula. It will not work over solvent based products that were previously used. Most people use a solvent based product that adds a gloss for stamped concrete. I would suggest the SuperSeal25:
Flagstone and slate should not be sealed with the SuperSeal25. These natural stone products are not porous enough to accept the heavily bodied SuperSeal25. If you are trying to protect these substrates then I would suggest the SuperSeal-M.
we have brick pavers on our pool deck and there is a lot of mold in between the pavers, how can the mold be removed and what can be done so it does not return?
The mold is growing in the sand and can be cleaned out with a pressure washer. You will need to re-sand the joints after. Make sure the pavers and new sand is dry before sweeping it in the joints.
Unfortunatley there really isn't any way to stop mold or mildew in a soft sand. Sealing the pavers and sand may help prevent the mold but it will not be a permanent solution.
Hello. I recently sealed my brick with a solvent based acrylic sealer on 12 year old pavers. A white salty residue is coming up in a small area of the driveway's sand joints. I would like to email you a picture of what is happening to see if you can tell me what is happening?
I just bought a house in which the previous owner had covered the bathroom floor with red wall bricks with mortar between the joints..My concern is that since these bricks are porous they will absorb splashes and spills and poor aim from the toilet. Is there a clear coat finish that I can use to cover this floor, make it evenly level and make it waterproof and odorproof. Thank you. Tom
I'm sorry but we only deal with exterior applications. Most likely you would need a high build laquer type coating to achieve what you are looking for.
I htink my drive has a water based sealer on it that is starting to wear off. I want to seal it with a solvent based. Can I remove the old watrer based with a hot water pressure washer or will it have to be stripped another way?
Powerwashing typically will not remove cement sealers by itself. It's hard to answer that question without knowing what the previous sealer was. If it was a non film (no visible coating or shine) forming sealer then you could probably just coat over top. If there is still a visible film (a shine or discoloration) then you would probably need to strip and powerwash. The type of stripper needed is also dependent on the previous sealer. With a solvent based sealer you would need a methylene chloride based stripper. With a water base you would probably need something different. If you know what your previous sealer was then try contacting the manufacturer as to what will remove it.
I recently used the milky white "high gloss" sealer sold at the local big box store. My patio brick is old and this just isn't a deep enough gloss. Can I use your product overtop of the milky white sealer to achieve a better and deeper gloss?
Sorry but you will need to remove the "milky" water based product before applying a solvent based sealer like the SuperSeal. Best way is to use a paint stripper.
I actually have a question. My husband and I just laid down a patio using blue stone and sand. Do you know of a stabilizing sealand that can be used on this. Thanks.
I just installed a 500 square foot, tumbled concrete paver (Mutual Materials) patio. We live on Puget Sound in Washington state and during high tide, the water will rise above the patio and will actually wash over the entire patio,so the patio will be underwater. I am worried about sand erosion. Will applying a seal help seal the sand in. If so, which sealer should I use?
We just had a concrete paver deck installed over our old concrete pool deck. How long should we wait to seal it? Will effloresence be a problem if we seal too early?
I would wait at least 2-4 weeks to see if there is an issue with efflorescence. Normally you will be able to see it develop on the surface by then. Id you do not see any then you should be able to seal the pavers.
My driveway/patio/sidewalk pavers are about 6 years old and never sealed. I get lots of mold here in S. Florida. I want to seal the pavers. I have gotten several estimates. Most recommend xylene-based, but one strongly recommends water-based, claiming that if EPA outlaws xylene, I would have to strip the xylene-based sealer and then apply water-based. How likely is EPA to prohibit xylene based sealants? Arnie
Changes in VOC laws in the next year or two will require changes for all types of coatings including solvent based paver sealers. Bad news is that xylene will not be allowed as the main solvent for a paver sealer. Good news is that other solvents will be allowed that will be compliant and can be used on top of a xylene based sealer without the need for removal.
SuperSeal VOC Paver Sealer is already compliant and can be used now and in the future after VOC laws are changed.
A couple years ago I sealed my pool deck pavers myself with the cheap Home Depot sealer. It ended up having some white spots. Recently I hired a so called professional to strip and reseal the pavers. The problem now is infinitely worse. Almost the entire area has turned white. Some spots have a white powdery/salty substance that forms on the surface. When wet it looks OK.
What is the best process to try to fix this problem. Thanks!
Every year I power wash, sand and seal my pavers with great results every year. This is a 3 day process (1 step per day). This year the sealer looks chalky and dry and it still absorbs water. I contacted Unilock and they told me to use Xylene to re-emulsify the sealer. Do you agree that will there is sealer there to reimulsify and if so then why does it asborb water? Any other suggestions?
Applying solvent should fix your issue with the white haze, It is not neccesarily due to the water but could be from over application of the sealer through the years.
For the last 3 days we've been having our pool lanai pavers installed. Today they were sanded & hosed off. They want to come back Monday & seal them with Clear Seal solvent based sealer. We are on the fence about sealing them so quickly and using solvent based sealer, afraid of getting the white hazing everyone is talking about online. I have been told that xylene based sealers are good if the person really knows what they're doing & that a water-based sealer would be a better choice. Our paver installer does not offer a water-based solution. Should we hire a professional sealing company to come out & use a water-based product or is the xylene based product what we should be using?
As long as the pavers are dry then yes the installer can use a solvent based sealer. White haze can happen from trapped moisture under the sealer. It does not matter if the sealer is solvent or water based.
I had a brick put in about 2 years ago and about 18 inches around the pool where the winter cover covers the brick have the white haze.the rest of the patio looks fine, I'm hoping i can powerwash around the pool to get them to match the patio so I can seal it.Would it be better to do at the end of the pool season or the beginning next year? I live in the Long Island.
I recently used UGL Wetlook Paver sealer (waterbased). And it doesn't look wet at all. Its shiny and that's it. I'm familiar with solvent sealers and applying it to deco concrete and its darkening/wetlook effect. I did not etch these new never sealed pavers. Was this my first mistake?
Regardless, the sealer has to come up so I can apply a product that will actually create what this homeowner wants. There is polymeric sand as the joint material. What's my best choice for stripping 1300sqft?
I have a five year old stamped concrete surface around our pool and it has been sealed every year except last year. It has faded and is in bad need of sealing/restoration. My problem is that the guy who installed and serviced my concrete is no longer available and I have no idea if he used water-based sealer or not. What advise might you have?
We recently had a solvent based sealer applied to our pavers. They do not have the glossy finish we expected, even after a two coat application. Do you have a product we can apply (roll-on) to provide the glossy finish? We also need to re-sand as they did not apply enough sand before sealing. Is there any product that will keep the sand in place that we can use?
Our most popular brick paver sealer. This is a solvent based product that can be sprayed with our Chapin 1949 sprayer or rolled on.
ReplyDeleteThis will create a "wet" look with a satin to semi-gloss shine.
It will also protect your pavers and cement from spills and UV rays!
I have recently added deck sealing to my exterior
ReplyDeletemaintenance business and have been hesitant to offer
gloss sealers because 99% of them are water based. I
have a hard time believing that a water based sealer
will hold up to standing water for very long. Here in
Florida, we get a lot of settling of our foundations
so paver decks and such end up with low spots that
collect and hold rain anywhere from a few hours to a
couple of days.
Is there any thing that you have or recommend that can
hold up to this plus heavy foot traffic such as around
pools?
Also, if you suggest a film former type sealer, when
its time is up, what is the best way to remove the old
sealant before putting down the new?
On your Sealant 30 you suggest rolling it on, but I am
wondering, how do you roll it without picking up the
sand in between the pavers and sealing sand on the
face of the pavers?
Thanks for you time and I appreciate your help.
Regards,
Jim
Solvent based sealers will outperform water based sealers. The SuperSeal25% is a solvent based product and it can be sprayed with the Chapin 1949 metal concrete sprayer. It is our most popular brick paver sealer that we carry. It can be applied around pools and heavy traffic areas.
ReplyDeleteThe SuperSeal30% is too thick to spray and you will need to roll the sealer. You do have to be extremely careful when rolling that you do not pull the sand out. The sand should be at least a 1/4"-1/2" below the top of the paver and you should not use a thick roller cover. 1/4' to 3/8" would be best and a sponge type will work better than a nap.
Removing paver sealer is very difficult but can be done with a Methylene Chloride stripper. You will not need to remove a previous coating before applying a new coating.
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI am curious as to the drying time for second coats
and before clients can use the area.
Also, what is used for clean up.
Thanks, I appreicate it.
Regards,
Jim P
The SuperSeal25% and 30% only require 1 coat at the ratio of 100 feet per gallon or 500 feet for a 5 gallon bucket. They do not need a second coat but if you would like to achieve a higher gloss then you could re coat about 2 hours after the first.
ReplyDeleteThe dry time for foot traffic is about 2 hours. You can put furniture back overnight. It must cure for a minimum of 24 hours before a car can drive on the SuperSeal.
You can use Xylene or Lacquer Thinner for clean up of tools. Both are readily available at any hardware store.
This morning I had some idiot seal my driveway and he never removed the excess sand after pressure washing. After two coats of sealant my driveway now looks like a piece of course sandpaper. Can you suggest any ways of fixing this problem.
ReplyDeleteFrustrated in FL
JA
This is a very difficult situation to fix. I would suggest getting a 5 gallon of our Aromatic 100 Solvent. You could apply this in sections to soften the sealer and use a power washer to remove the sand. The other option is to use a Methylene Chloride based stripper to strip all of the sealer off. The first suggestion would be easier but still very difficult.
ReplyDeleteEither way you will need to reseal the driveway when done.
Our paver sealer has a milky white look to it. This happened almost immediately after sealing. It did rain earlier in the day before we sealed it but the pavers looked dry before the coating was applied. Please help us fix this problem
ReplyDeleteJust because the pavers looked dry does not mean that it is. You should always wait at least 24 hours after rain before applying a brick paver sealer.
ReplyDeleteMoisture that is trapped can be released by applying a solvent such as xylene or lacquer thinner. This will soften the sealer and release the trapped moisture. We sell a 5 gallon at:
http://www.opwdecks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS1005G&Category_Code=
We put Cambridge Pavers around our pool last year. They still have the white powdery surface. Does this have to be treated before sealing? Thank you!
ReplyDeleteEfflorescence is a white chalky salt that is produced in the manufacturing of all cement products. This will typically go away naturaly within a few months.
ReplyDeleteYou can chemically remove with a watered down muriatic or hydochloric acid (1:4). You need to be very careful when doing this. Too much acid can etch the cement pavers and make them look instantly old.
If you cannot see the Efflorescence when wet then you will not see it when the pavers are sealed.
I applied the Super Seal Brick Paver Sealer and it look fantastic but I have one concern. After about 3 months I am noticing most of my edging of pavers are getting like a gray sand formation over the pavers. I tried scrapping it off with a wire brush but it won't come off. Why is this occuring? If you have a solution please respond to my email; lriver100@earthlink.net
ReplyDeleteThanks
Luis
I am not quite sure what it is. I have never heard of a gray sand formation. Is there anyway you could email us a digital picture. Hopefully it is something that is easily fixed.
ReplyDeleteMy driveway is colored, stamped concrete. The surface was sealed but I don't know what product was used. It left a semi-gloss surface which has eroded away in some areas. Can I apply SuperSeal paver sealer over this old sealer? What preparation is required other than a thorough pressure washing?
ReplyDeleteAs long as the previous sealer was a solvent based product then the SuperSeal will work just fine.
ReplyDeleteNothing else is needed except just cleaning prior to sealing. Make sure it is completely dry before applying the SuperSeal Paver Sealer.
Good day,
ReplyDeleteI have a concrete paver patio and front entry walkway that was installed last fall (approx. 700 sq. ft. total). The pavers have always been fairly dull and flat in appearance (except when wet). No sealer has been applied.
What product would you recommend to brighten the appearance? A bit of ‘wet look’ would be fine.
Thanks!
-Jim
SuperSeal25% would be the ideal product for sealing your pavers:
ReplyDeleteActually the SuperSeal looks like it could be too glossy. Any other suggestions? How bout DEFY Epoxy Fortified Paver Sealer?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
-Jim
Defy is a very good product. Being a water based product is suggested to put two coats on to achieve the gloss level of one coat of SuperSeal. One coat would be sufficient to achieve a low lustre but an enhanced look.
ReplyDeleteI would like to know the life expectancy of the Super Sealer 30 for brick (concrete) pavers in South Florida. I purchase another brand and the gloss lasted only a few months.
ReplyDeleteThank you,
Antonio
Typically will last 1-2 years with minor dulling. The shine is easily rejuvenated with our Aromatic 100 solvent. This will re emulsify the sealer so that it will look brand new. We suggest doing this once a year or so that you can extend the life of the SuperSeal.
ReplyDeleteI have a patio that was sealed with a Prouct called Increte clear acrylic
ReplyDeletesealer. This was done about 3 years ago. I can not fine this product and i
want to know if your sealer will work with there sealer, because I've been
told that sealers can't be intermixed. Thankyou.
As long as the previous product was a solvent based product then our SuperSeal products will work just fine:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.opwdecks.com/supersealpaversealers.htm
I applied your sealer in June, 06 and shortly after notices a chalk coloring throughout the driveway. I called your rep and he suggested using Xylene to remove these spots. I did and still have these spots. Two of my neighbors also bought your sealer product and they are having the same problem. Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteThere is 3 main reasons as to why something under the sealer is causing it to turn white. SuperSeal by itself will not turn white. It is a Styrene acrylic that will not discolor.
ReplyDeleteXylene removes moisture that is trapped under the pavers. The xylene would remove this issue immediately.
If the pavers were new then it could be efflorescence. Efflorescence is a white chalky salt that resides in concrete and will rise to the surface from the Sun. This will typically happen within the first year of installation. This is not removable unless you completely strip down the sealer which is extremely difficult.
If you have sealed your pavers previously with an inferior product then that product could be causing the discoloring. Straight acrylic sealers somtimes blush from the sun turning it white. This is dependent on the quality of the acrylic the used. This also will need to be stripped down.
If you can send a digital picture I would be able to tell.
Scott Paul
We just moved into a home with a brick paver driveway and patio. I'd guess that it was installed 5 years ago. Are we able to seal it now? Or is it too late?
ReplyDeleteNo you are not to late to seal the paver driveway. It will enhance the look and protect it from spills and stains. I would suggest that you clean thoroughly first and add jointing sand if needed.
ReplyDeleteCan I pressure washed with bleach to clean the pavers before use your product.?
ReplyDeleteYou can pressure wash before using our SuperSeal products. Bleach is not needed though unless you are trying to remove mold.
ReplyDeleteMy patio was stamped summer before last...I would like to seal it with your superseal-m....the only coat of sealant that went down on it was done by the contractor and instead of 3 coats he put one...and did it in the rain with a sprayer...so it is not very good....will this go over it? I have no idea what he used.....please advise...there are numerous cracks in the concrete...will this get down in them and prolong the life of the existing job?...thanks...Deb
ReplyDeleteSuperSeal-M is a water based non gloss formula. It will not work over solvent based products that were previously used. Most people use a solvent based product that adds a gloss for stamped concrete. I would suggest the SuperSeal25:
ReplyDeleteCan the SuperSeal 25 be used on flagstone and slate? If not, can u remcommend a product that can be?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
MJ
What product would you recommend to clean mold and mildew from mexican tile on a roof, prevent it from happening again, and then sealing it?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
MJ
Flagstone and slate should not be sealed with the SuperSeal25. These natural stone products are not porous enough to accept the heavily bodied SuperSeal25. If you are trying to protect these substrates then I would suggest the SuperSeal-M.
ReplyDeleteThe Defy Roof Cleaning system would help aid with the cleaning and mold prevention on roofs.
ReplyDeleteDo you sell xylene? If not, can u direct me to a place online where i can purchase it?
ReplyDeleteWe do not sell xylene but we do sell the Aromatic 100 Solvent which is basically the same thing.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.opwdecks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS1005G&Category_Code=
we have brick pavers on our pool deck and there is a lot of mold in between the pavers, how can the mold be removed and what can be done so it does not return?
ReplyDeleteThe mold is growing in the sand and can be cleaned out with a pressure washer. You will need to re-sand the joints after. Make sure the pavers and new sand is dry before sweeping it in the joints.
ReplyDeleteUnfortunatley there really isn't any way to stop mold or mildew in a soft sand. Sealing the pavers and sand may help prevent the mold but it will not be a permanent solution.
Hello. I recently sealed my brick with a solvent based acrylic sealer on 12 year old pavers. A white salty residue is coming up in a small area of the driveway's sand joints. I would like to email you a picture of what is happening to see if you can tell me what is happening?
ReplyDeleteYou may send any pictures to:
ReplyDeletesales@opwdecks.com
Hopefully we will be able to determine what is causing your issues
I just bought a house in which the previous owner had covered the bathroom floor with red wall bricks with mortar between the joints..My concern is that since these bricks are porous they will absorb splashes and spills and poor aim from the toilet. Is there a clear coat finish that I can use to cover this floor, make it evenly level and make it waterproof and odorproof.
ReplyDeleteThank you.
Tom
I'm sorry but we only deal with exterior applications. Most likely you would need a high build laquer type coating to achieve what you are looking for.
ReplyDeleteI htink my drive has a water based sealer on it that is starting to wear off. I want to seal it with a solvent based. Can I remove the old watrer based with a hot water pressure washer or will it have to be stripped another way?
ReplyDeletePowerwashing typically will not remove cement sealers by itself. It's hard to answer that question without knowing what the previous sealer was. If it was a non film (no visible coating or shine) forming sealer then you could probably just coat over top. If there is still a visible film (a shine or discoloration) then you would probably need to strip and powerwash. The type of stripper needed is also dependent on the previous sealer. With a solvent based sealer you would need a methylene chloride based stripper. With a water base you would probably need something different. If you know what your previous sealer was then try contacting the manufacturer as to what will remove it.
ReplyDeleteI recently used the milky white "high gloss" sealer sold at the local big box store. My patio brick is old and this just isn't a deep enough gloss. Can I use your product overtop of the milky white sealer to achieve a better and deeper gloss?
ReplyDeleteSorry but you will need to remove the "milky" water based product before applying a solvent based sealer like the SuperSeal. Best way is to use a paint stripper.
ReplyDeleteI actually have a question. My husband and I just laid down a patio using blue stone and sand. Do you know of a stabilizing sealand that can be used on this. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteNot on natural stone. It is not porous enough to accept a cement/paver sealer.
ReplyDeleteI just installed a 500 square foot, tumbled concrete paver (Mutual Materials) patio. We live on Puget Sound in Washington state and during high tide, the water will rise above the patio and will actually wash over the entire patio,so the patio will be underwater. I am worried about sand erosion. Will applying a seal help seal the sand in. If so, which sealer should I use?
ReplyDeleteSealer will help with the sand from normal conditions such as snow and rain. Nothing will help from a constant hight tide. It will just wash it away.
ReplyDeleteWe just had a concrete paver deck installed over our old concrete pool deck. How long should we wait to seal it? Will effloresence be a problem if we seal too early?
ReplyDeleteI would wait at least 2-4 weeks to see if there is an issue with efflorescence. Normally you will be able to see it develop on the surface by then. Id you do not see any then you should be able to seal the pavers.
ReplyDeleteGo to:
www.deck-restoration.com for more advice.
My driveway/patio/sidewalk pavers are about 6 years old and never sealed. I get lots of mold here in S. Florida. I want to seal the pavers.
ReplyDeleteI have gotten several estimates. Most recommend xylene-based, but one strongly recommends water-based, claiming that if EPA outlaws xylene, I would have to strip the xylene-based sealer and then apply water-based. How likely is EPA to prohibit xylene based sealants?
Arnie
Changes in VOC laws in the next year or two will require changes for all types of coatings including solvent based paver sealers. Bad news is that xylene will not be allowed as the main solvent for a paver sealer. Good news is that other solvents will be allowed that will be compliant and can be used on top of a xylene based sealer without the need for removal.
ReplyDeleteSuperSeal VOC Paver Sealer is already compliant and can be used now and in the future after VOC laws are changed.
New site for Brick Paver Sealers and Restoration Supplies
ReplyDeleteBrick Paver Sealer
A couple years ago I sealed my pool deck pavers myself with the cheap Home Depot sealer. It ended up having some white spots. Recently I hired a so called professional to strip and reseal the pavers. The problem now is infinitely worse. Almost the entire area has turned white. Some spots have a white powdery/salty substance that forms on the surface. When wet it looks OK.
ReplyDeleteWhat is the best process to try to fix this problem.
Thanks!
You will need to strip and start over. Sorry but there is not other way to fix this.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.brickpaversealer.com/paver-sealer-stripper
Every year I power wash, sand and seal my pavers with great results every year. This is a 3 day process (1 step per day). This year the sealer looks chalky and dry and it still absorbs water. I contacted Unilock and they told me to use Xylene to re-emulsify the sealer. Do you agree that will there is sealer there to reimulsify and if so then why does it asborb water? Any other suggestions?
ReplyDeleteApplying solvent should fix your issue with the white haze, It is not neccesarily due to the water but could be from over application of the sealer through the years.
ReplyDeleteFor the last 3 days we've been having our pool lanai pavers installed. Today they were sanded & hosed off. They want to come back Monday & seal them with Clear Seal solvent based sealer. We are on the fence about sealing them so quickly and using solvent based sealer, afraid of getting the white hazing everyone is talking about online. I have been told that xylene based sealers are good if the person really knows what they're doing & that a water-based sealer would be a better choice. Our paver installer does not offer a water-based solution. Should we hire a professional sealing company to come out & use a water-based product or is the xylene based product what we should be using?
ReplyDeleteAs long as the pavers are dry then yes the installer can use a solvent based sealer. White haze can happen from trapped moisture under the sealer. It does not matter if the sealer is solvent or water based.
ReplyDeleteI had a brick put in about 2 years ago and about 18 inches around the pool where the winter cover covers the brick have the white haze.the rest of the patio looks fine, I'm hoping i can powerwash around the pool to get them to match the patio so I can seal it.Would it be better to do at the end of the pool season or the beginning next year? I live in the Long Island.
ReplyDeletePressure washing does not remove white haze. Doesn't matter when you do it but since it is late in the season I would wait to Spring
ReplyDeleteI applied a water based sealer 9 days ago and it will not dry completely. I live in Florida and it is staying tacky. Any solution?
ReplyDeleteIf it does not dry then you will need tos trip it all off and start over.
ReplyDeleteI recently used UGL Wetlook Paver sealer (waterbased). And it doesn't look wet at all. Its shiny and that's it. I'm familiar with solvent sealers and applying it to deco concrete and its darkening/wetlook effect. I did not etch these new never sealed pavers. Was this my first mistake?
ReplyDeleteRegardless, the sealer has to come up so I can apply a product that will actually create what this homeowner wants. There is polymeric sand as the joint material. What's my best choice for stripping 1300sqft?
Thanks
Cliff
Cliff-
ReplyDeleteI would use this stripper to remove the UGL sealer.
http://www.concretesealerstore.com/Concrete-Sealer-Remover.html
I have a five year old stamped concrete surface around our pool and it has been sealed every year except last year. It has faded and is in bad need of sealing/restoration. My problem is that the guy who installed and serviced my concrete is no longer available and I have no idea if he used water-based sealer or not. What advise might you have?
ReplyDeleteI would look at this product if you do not know if the old sealer was water or solvent based:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.defystain.com/decorative-concrete-sealer.html
We recently had a solvent based sealer applied to our pavers. They do not have the glossy finish we expected, even after a two coat application. Do you have a product we can apply (roll-on) to provide the glossy finish? We also need to re-sand as they did not apply enough sand before sealing. Is there any product that will keep the sand in place that we can use?
ReplyDeleteI would look at the SuperSeal30 for this.
ReplyDelete